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Iris pallida variegata

Iris


‘One of the most beautiful of all known flowers’ wrote Victorian gardener, William Robinson.  The Iris has featured in gardens throughout history, especially during Edwardian times and has been a subject in art, right from medieval manuscripts and Dutch master paintings to the works of Monet, Van Gogh and William Morris.

 
360Iris siberica 'Ruffled Velvet'
Iris siberica 'Ruffled Velvet'


Irises are elegant upright perennials with long stems and showy flowers. There are over 300 different species and thousands of varieties and cultivars, living in a multitude of differing conditions. They can be found in a wide range of colours, from rich blues to pinks, orange, brown, flashy yellows and even black. Many have extraordinary combinations such as butterscotch yellow and violet and beautiful, intricate patterns. Botanists have subdivided the genus into several subgenera and sections, each with common characteristics. Gardeners tend to use a more simplified horticultural classification with two main groups:

Bulbous irises: the botanical groups, Reticulata, Juno and Xiphium. These iris grow from bulbs that require a period of dormancy after they have bloomed. The bulbous irises are typically smaller than rhizome irises and usually produce smaller blossoms and cylindrical basal leaves.

Rhizomatous irises:  these are then subdivided into the Bearded irises, and the Beardless irises. Rhizome iris tend to have thickened stems that grow horizontally, either underground or partially underground. They produce 3-10 sword shaped leaves that overlap in dense clumps, forming flat fans of green foliage.

The rhizome subdivisions are :-

Bearded irises include the botanical groups of Oncocyclus, Regelia, Regeliocyclus and Arilbred irises, as well as the familiar bearded irises. They have four distinct parts to the flowers: Standards, Falls, Stigma flaps and Beard.

Beardless irises comprise the Pacific Coast irises, Siberian, Spuria, Laevigatae the water or Japanese irises, Louisiana, Unguiculares and Crested irises.  They have Standards, Falls and Stigma flaps.

Different types suit different situations; for example bearded irises are good in sunny borders, beardless Siberian iris and Japanese iris are great in and around ponds and the dwarf bulb irises grow well in rock gardens.


History
 
The iris is a native of the northern hemisphere and grows wild, from high Himalayan bogs to arid Greek hillsides and the banks of British canals.  It takes its name from the Greek goddess of the rainbow, who brought Hera’s messages to earth in a trail of rainbow colours. Stone carvings of iris can be found at Karnak in Egypt and Pliny the Elder wrote about iris cultivation. 

The heraldic emblem of France is the flag iris and there are many stories as to how this came about.  One is that the 5th Century king of the Franks used the bright yellow iris flowers growing on the banks of the Rhine as a guide to cross the river to safety, away from the Goths. The iris is also the emblem of Brussels and Florence, Brussels took this symbol, as the largest island in the Senne river, Saint Gaugericus Island, was carpeted in them.  Florence was where the white Iris ‘florentina’ was widely grown even in its city walls.  The rhizomes of this iris were dried, aged for up to 5 years and used in the production of orris for perfumes.

In the late 19th century thousands of tons of dried rhizomes were exported from Florence for this use.  Catherine de Medici of Florence married Louis VII of France and he wore the iris as an emblem during the crusades in the 12th century, where it became known as the ‘fleur de Louis’, ‘de luce’ or as it is more well known ‘fleur de lis’. The more stylised version of the ‘fleur de lis’ is of course the universally known symbol of the scouting organisation.

Iris has also been used in many medical remedies and in early times was thought to treat conditions from such things as freckles to bad breath!  Today the iris is used to produce an essential oil for use in aromatherapy and has a sedative effect.

Europe’s oldest cultivated iris is thought to be ‘Iris germanica’; the Mediterranean purple flag iris which dates back to the 9th century.  The first named hybrid was French, probably dating to 1822, but plant breeding really took off later that century in Cambridge in the garden of Professor Michael Foster, who crossed vigorous new Asian iris with hybrids and Iris pallida to produce the ancestors of todays varieties. Another notable person in the development of the iris is W R Dykes, a Charterhouse Schoolmaster and an authority on the iris; who wrote a book in 1913 classifying the iris and was awarded many medals by the American, Australasian and British iris societies.


Propagation

Propagation can be achieved from seed or by division.  Most iris species can be grown from seed, although some may take many years to flower. Hybrid irises won't grow true from seed and should ideally be propagated by division. Late summer is the best time to move or divide most forms, but divide I. cristata just after it has flowered in spring. Bulbous irises can be lifted and divided when the leaves have faded. When dividing rhizomes, keep the young, vigorous parts and discard the old. Using a garden fork, carefully dig the plant out of the ground, wash the remaining soil off and start to divide the root into single plants with a leaf fan on each.  The leaf fans should then be cut down to approximately 15cm (6”). The retained sections should be allowed to dry overnight to allow cuts to seal up before replanting. This will minimize chances of disease invading the rhizomes. Water the newly planted sections in dry weather in their first season to help them establish a new root system.


Cultivation

Irises have very varied moisture, soil acidity and fertility requirements.  The wrong conditions will kill off the plants, so care should be taken to supply as correct a growing position as possible before buying the iris, and especially before planting it. The best guide is to consider their native habitats.
 
Irises in general prefer well-drained soil, the exception being the water-edge varieties. Soil should be prepared prior to planting by adding grit and humus to open up heavy clay soils and working in a low nitrogen fertilizer such as bonemeal. Manure can be used as long as it is well rotted and at least a year old, otherwise it could rot the rhizomes or bulbs. The best time to plant irises is late July or through August, planting any later may not give the iris time to develop a good root system before the winter.

All irises, except bulbous varieties, should be planted with the broad, fleshy rhizomes at or just below the soil surface. The rhizomes need direct sunlight and mustn't be shaded by surrounding plants. If you have several plants, plant them at least a foot and a half apart, "facing" the same way. The rhizomes will then increase in the same direction, without crowding each other too soon. To stop overcrowding rhizomes should be split every 3-5 years after flowering.

The culture of the beardless irises differs somewhat from that of the bearded irises. They should be transplanted in autumn or in early spring. The roots should never be allowed to dry out while they are out of the ground and they should be watered heavily after planting. They should be set slightly deeper than the tall bearded. Japanese iris should be planted in a distinct "depression" in heavy soil to assist in supplying moisture to the plant.

Siberians and the Pacific Coast Natives can tolerate light shade but the Spurias, Japanese and Louisianas demand full sun. Louisianas and Japanese require moist conditions during the summer months while the Pacific Coast Natives enjoy a very low humidity and dry soil no matter how hot it may get. All except Louisianas, should be planted in a permanent spot where they can remain for many years as they resent being disturbed. Louisianas tend to "creep" and therefore, should be checked every few years.

Bulbous irises should be planted 10cm-20cm (4”-8”) deep in autumn and they can be lifted and divided as the leaves fade.  Juno irises should be planted 5cm (2”) deep.


Care

Bearded Irises :
In early spring clean and remove all debris from the plants such as old leaves. Irises are generally heavy feeders but they grow vigorously during the first two months of the season and so it is a good time to apply a low nitrogen slow release fertilizer. Watering is not required at this stage as they will receive adequate moisture from natural rainfall. After the blooms have faded remove the flower stalks cleanly at the junction with the rhizome.

Do not remove or cut back the leaves unless they are dead or badly spotted as they will nourish the plants during the remaining growing season. A second application of fertilizer can used after flowering (end June). In late autumn cut back the leaves 20cm-25cm (8”-10”) from the ground and remove all the dead leaves and any other garden debris. This keeps the plants free of materials which retain moisture and disease which may damage the rhizomes.

Iris 'Rajah'
Iris 'Rajah'

Beardless Irises :
Beardless irises have a wide range of tolerance for shadier places with moister soil. These irises are a great idea for water or rain gardens. Within this group are:-

Iris sibirica -These irises grow in any reasonably fertile, slightly acidic, moisture retentive soil, in full sun or in partial shade. They are good for planting at the edge of a stream or pond where their roots can dip into the water. Once planted iris sibirica are very undemanding and don't need regular division. Plant firmly but not too deeply. Apply a low nitrogen fertilizer in spring and autumn and keep moist during dry spells.

Iris ensata (kaempferi) - The Japanese iris prefers a rich soil containing plenty of organic matter and are particularly suited to acid soils. They need plenty of water and you can grow them very successfully as marginal plants beside a pond. It is important to make sure that the water you use on these plants is not too high in pH as this can gradually raise the pH of your soil and result in the gradual yellowing of the leaves. The soil pH can be lowered by the addition of granular ferrous sulphate (iron sulphate) or agricultural sulphur.  Iris ensata are quite heavy feeders and should be fed in early spring. They are best divided every 3 - 4 years.

Iris unguicularis - This species flowers between October and March. It likes the poor soils and dry conditions of the southern Mediterranean and North Africa, and flowers best when planted in well drained soil, up against a south-facing wall, in full sun. Iris unguicularis need little attention and can be left for many years without division.

Iris foetidissima - called the 'roast beef iris' after the smell of its crushed leaves, this is one of the most adaptable plants regarding soil or position, and is often found in hedgerows in southern England. It thrives in any soil including pure chalk, under trees and in shade. It's very undemanding but should be watered well after planting until it has become established.


Iris foetidissima citrinum seed heads
Iris foetidissima citrinum seed heads


Iris pseudacorus - the familiar yellow flag iris of wild water meadows is much too vigorous for most gardens if planted in wet ground beside a natural pond, but is more manageable in an open border where the soil isn't too dry.


Iris pseudacorus
Iris pseudacorus

Bulbous Iris :
These include, Dutch, English, Spanish, Reticulata and Juno. They are hardy, and grow best in a free-draining, neutral or slightly alkaline, fertile soil in full sun.  They like ample moisture during the growing period but very little during their summer dormancy. The bulbs should be planted in late summer or autumn, and only about 5cm (2”) deep. In the garden, divide established clumps just after the leaves die down every few years, if they become congested. Bulbous irises are prone to virus infection and so need to be kept free of aphids, which will spread the infection.

Take care when handling irises as the sap can cause skin irritation.
All parts of the plant can be poisonous if eaten.



Pests and Diseases

In the main, iris are not prone to major pests and diseases in the UK.  Aphids can be a problem during hot damp weather in the summer and these should be controlled by your preferred method.  Slugs and snails are probably the worst predators and they can be deterred by using anything from slug pellets to more organic methods such as nematode control, beer traps, or even the simple, but time-consuming process of collecting them by hand in the mornings and evenings. The main diseases to look out for are : Rhizome Rot, Scorch and Rust.

Rhizome Rot - this attacks the rhizome, it becomes soft and turns buff-yellow in colour. Bearded irises can be prone to this if they have poor drainage.  Often the first sign of rot is when a healthy looking fan keels over, you can then see that the cells at the base have turned translucent.

Iris rhizomes
Iris rhizomes


The rhizome will yield to pressure, and if the skin is punctured, a noxious smell is released. Lift the affected piece, and cut back to white flesh, discarding and burning the bad part to prevent spreading the disease. Dust the cut end with sulphur powder, and replant 24 hours later in a different place. If possible, it is better to remove the soil from the original position, and replace with new before planting anything else.

Scorch - is a condition where the leaf starts dying back from the tip, first turning orange/red then brown. It may not affect all the plants in a particular area, but there is currently no known remedy for this disease, and  so all affected plants should be lifted and burnt to prevent it spreading.

Rust – This is when brown spots appear on the leaves, usually after flowering, but can happen at any time. While it is disfiguring to the plant, it has not yet been proved to be harmful.  When the leaves die down, they should be collected and burnt to prevent spreading the disease. A fungicidal spray will control the rust, although it will not remove any of the existing spots.

Scientific Classification

Kingdom:

Plantae

Division:

Magnoliophyta

Class:

Liliopsida

Order:

Asparagales

Family:

Iridaceae

Genus:

Iris


Further Information : -

National collections of irises:

Mrs Murphy
Myddelton House Gardens
Bulls Cross, Enfield
Middlesex EN2 9HG
Tel: 01992 702200
Website: www.leevalleypark.org.uk

C. Austin
Claire Austin Hardy Plants
Edgebolton, Shawbury
Shropshire SY4 4EL
Tel: 01939 251173
Website: www.claireaustin-hardyplants.co.uk

JRL Carter
Rowden Gardens
Brentnor, Tavistock
Devon PL19 ONG
Tel: 01822 810275
Website: www.rowdengardens.com

Head Gardener
Belsay Hall, Belsay
Newcastle upon Tyne
Northumberland NE20 ODX
Tel: 01661 881069

Mr M. Pharoah
Marwood Hill Gardens
Marwood, Barnstaple
Devon EX31 4EB
Tel: 01271 342528
Website: www.marwoodhillgarden.co.uk


Iris Societies :

http://www.britishirissociety.org.uk/index.html

http://www.irises.org/index.htm

Iris siberica
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